The lifting of this edge also helps create a little illusion of a darker color on the outside of the petal, due to the shadow created by the satin stitch. This helps lift the outside of this petal and creates a nice smooth edge. Just work right on the line, up against your split stitch outline, and if you need to, slant your needle underneath the split stitch a tiny bit, pointing towards the middle of the flower. For this satin stitching, you’ll always bring your needle up on the inside edge of the petal and take the needle and thread down over the split stitch line.Īs you take your needle into the fabric over the split stitch line, make sure you’re on the design line, not outside it, and not inside it. Bring your needle up in the middle of the inside edge of the petal, in the little “valley” at the intersection of the inside petals of the flower. I stitched my split stitch line just inside the pattern line, instead of right on it, because I want my satin stitch to end exactly on the pattern line.Īfter split stitching along that outside edge of the petal, it’s time to satin stitch the petal. Do not split stitch the inside edge of the petal. Begin with a split stitch line only on the top edge of the inside of the petal (refer to the line shown in the photo above). This part is stitched in satin stitch, in dark red Soie de Paris, #4624. Once all five leaves are finished, you’ll move on to the inside of the outside petals. I used these leaves to demonstrate stitching to a sharp point with satin stitch, so you’ll want to follow those directions if you want to stitch the leaves the same way. To stitch the leaves on this design, please refer to this tutorial on stitching to a point with satin stitch. Knot your thread, go down into the fabric from the top of your work, make three tiny stab stitches to anchor your thread, and then cut the knot off. For the leaf, I made my tacking stitches right in the middle. It’s a beautiful thread, and great for this type of embroidery.įor all of the silk embroidery on this piece, you’ll want to anchor your thread with small tacking stitches in an area that will be covered up with other stitches. I’m using Soie de Paris #2134, a filament silk with a soft twist. The leaves are the first thing to tackle. When working a combination of silk embroidery and goldwork, it’s normal to do all the silk embroidery first, so that your silk threads don’t catch on any metal threads while you’re stitching. After applying the pounce powder, I used a micron art pen to “connect the dots.” Easy-peasy, and it worked really well. This way, I had a pricked “template” ready for repeat transfers (I’ll be doing five more of these in the days to come).
![rose embroidery rose embroidery](https://i.pinimg.com/736x/e3/4b/ff/e34bfffee8fe0a2322cf1174f06df9e7.jpg)
To transfer my design, I used the prick & pounce method. I lined my linen with a good quality white muslin.
![rose embroidery rose embroidery](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/96/03/9b/96039b8ba48db47e19bd6b19ecad5829.jpg)
You can find this linen at a number of fine embroidery shops online. I used a nice linen woven specifically for embroidery, called Alabaster Angel by Legacy Linen. You can use whatever embroidery transfer method you prefer, and whatever ground fabric you prefer, but the ground fabric should be sturdy enough to accommodate metal thread embroidery, if you’re using metal threads. Soie de Paris, in four colors: 2134 (green – or you can use 2214, which is a bit darker) 4624 (dark red) 2914 (pink / rose) & cremeįirst step: transfer your design to your fabric of choice. These are the materials I used for my version: You can certainly customize yours if you wish – switch up the colors however you wish, or select different types of threads, etc.
![rose embroidery rose embroidery](https://www.beautyemblem.com/proimage/control_page/1520989499.jpg)
These instructions are simply to show you how I went about stitching this piece. If you work a larger sized rose, you’ll need to adjust your stitching to fit the size of your design. My original size was the small 1.5″ round rose, so the stitching that I’m doing in this step-by-step tutorial fits in that size piece.
#Rose embroidery download#
If you’re just checking in on this and you want to stitch the project, you can download the embroidery pattern for the Tudor-style rose and use whatever size you want to work. You’ll find all the tutorials for this embroidery project listed in order under the Goldwork & Silk Embroidered Tudor-Style Rose Index listed on the Tips & Techniques page. As promised, here’s the beginning of step-by-step stitching instructions for the goldwork & silk Tudor-style rose.